The Low Down

Montblanc has been making watches since the late 90s, but it wasn’t until 2014 that the brand truly made watch enthusiasts sit up and take notice. Montblanc did this by releasing the Meisterstuck Heritage Perpetual Calendar, a highly complex piece of watchmaking priced very competitively. Since then, the brand’s fine watchmaking offer has evolved, but the perpetual calendar has remained core. This Montblanc Heritage Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition 100, with its rich dial, is the latest.

IMHO

This watch is based on the Heritage Perpetual Calendar Montblanc debuted in 2019 — a 40mm case that shows off the harmonious proportions of the Calibre MB 29.22 to full effect while also offering a second timezone display. This patented movement has a calendar complication that is lever-less, using only wheels and cams to control the displays. From a wearer point of view, what this means is that you can set the date backwards and forwards and, thanks to a safety lock, you cannot change the date between the hours of 6 pm and midnight, when the calendar mechanisms are engaged.

It’s also a reasonably slim perpetual calendar, as far as these things go, clocking in at 12.25mm (and a not-insubstantial amount of that measurement is down to the lovely domed crystal). Really though, we’re burying the lede here — as the major news on this watch is the incredibly rich ‘burnt caramel’ dial. Not only is the colour as tasty-looking as the name implies, but it’s sophisticated too. The dial is domed and with a ‘grainé’ hour ring and a sunray finish. The warm tones are amplified by the rose gold-toned hours and hands, in keeping with the solid 18 K rose gold case.

This latest-generation perpetual calendar from Montblanc is the successor to that 2014 Meisterstuck — offering improved functionality on top of style and value in equally ample servings.

Tech Specs

Calibre: Calibre MB 29.22, automatic with 48 hours of power reserve, perpetual calendar indications with month and leap-year at 3 o’clock, date and moonphase at 6 o’clock and day at 9 o’clock. Second time zone from the centre with 24-hour display at 9 o’clock.
Case and Dial: 18 K rose gold case, 40mm by 12.25mm, scratch-resistant, domed box-shaped sapphire crystal with antireflective coating. Domed, ‘burnt caramel’ coloured dial.
Strap: Brown Sfumato alligator strap with 18 K rose gold pin buckle.
Price and Availability: 24,900 Euro, limited to 100 pieces.