De Bethune
Introducing the De Bethune DB28XP 10th Anniversary Watches
For its 10th anniversary, our good buddy Pierre Jacques, DB’s CEO, arranged for the creation of three pieces that wrap up the concept that empowers De Bethune and tell its story, one where originality has never been subject to monetary restrictions. It was about the divine and original concept of making art for art’s sake, possibly as the Chevalier De Bethune conceived, in 1727, the dual-train, single-wheel, half-second pocket watch escapement system. Today, Denis Flageollet, the master watchmaker who has brought all DB’s to life, has taken this quest to new heights.
There are several features that generally define the concept of DB28 and the new DB28XP Trilogy, the three new pieces that mark the ten-year jubilee: its 43mm case, with its fine finishings and particular detailing according to the reference, as well as its transparent caseback that continues to reveal the magic of each and every piece; the crown arranged at 12 o’clock, as a wink to the old pocket watches of yesteryear; the floating lugs, skeletonized and articulated at their roots — and perfectly aligned with the horizontal axis of the watch — which not only add comfort and ergonomics to the technical piece but are themselves a “very De Bethune” technical feature; depending on the reference in question, there is also the great rubric that is the Delta-shaped bridge that enhances the presence of the watch; and, of course, the inner mechanics, all of them loaded with creativity and beauty like few series in the world can achieve.
DB28XP Bridge Dial
The guiding concept of the new DB28XP is homogeneity. The watches had to be seen as mutual complements, as a continuous series, starting and ending in three episodes, as a cult mini-series. Titanium is the vital element of the DB28XP and monochrome is its essential attire, on-ly detailed by the numerous shapes and details of the finished case, bezels, lugs, dials and mechanics. Trying to achieve (successfully, by the way) such a meticulous appearance is a curiosity that goes against the nature of ultra-thin, mostly demure, discreet and essential timepieces. Here, the polishing of the bridges and the satin finishings of the sides of the case band add layers by means of the play of light that bathes the watch.
The reformulated case boasts new geometries and proportions for the floating lugs and the crown. Having a slimmer case now, the shapes, anchors and joints had to be modified to fit it. The overall shape of the DB28XP has been completely redesigned, with a more pronounced curvature, flowing with into the lugs and into the crocodile leather straps. The Microlight finishing of the mainplate is repeated along the edges of the case and becomes more meticulous and kind of organic in the absence of simple geometric shapes.
The magic goes on with the movement of the DB28XP, reformulated to occupy a smaller vol-ume within its encasing. The DB2115v6 manual winding movement features the classic De Bethune balance wheel, visible through an opening at 6 o’clock.
As for the concept behind the idea of extreme thinness, this DB28 Dual Bridge has a total thickness of just 7.2 millimetres. Compare this to the regular thickness of a DB28, which is 9.3 mm — which itself was already slim — and you’ll appreciate even more the execution of this trio.
DB28XP Starry Sky
A whole universe of inspiration, the DB28XP Starry Sky is Flageollet’s major art attack on the trilogy, offering a figurative firmament on its deep blue dial.
DB28XP Tourbillon
The DB28XP Tourbillon is directly inspired by the look of the DB28 Digitale. With this third interpretation of the DB28’s theme, De Bethune rethinks the watchmaking architecture at its core and explores new codes, in addition to a predictably refined technique.
The DB28XP Tourbillon is a time-only instrument where the seconds hand reveals a detail as magical as it is technical: its 30-second rotation, which subtly reveals that the heart of this piece beats at a high frequency.
Such an execution can’t be thought of as anything but delicate and even fragile, can it? Then how do you protect it so that it remains functional? It’s pure science, dear reader. Precisely because of its lightened mass, inertia is reduced and the acceleration forces affecting the regulating device are minimized. Added to this is the high frequency of the balance wheel, which gives the DB28XP Tourbillon’s heart a sort of natural isolation. And what about the thickness? For this DB28XP Tourbillon, we are talking about just 8.1 mm. Again, compare it against, let’s say, the 9.2mm for a regular DB28 Tourbillon. Achievement unlocked!
DB28XP
Movement
Hand-wound caliber DB2115v6, hours and minutes, 6 days power reserve with pro-prietary self-regulating twin barrel, titanium balance with white gold inserts, silicon escape wheel and triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system, 28,800 vibrations/ hour
Case
43mm, polished Grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle, 7.2mm thickness, water resistant to 3 ATM
Strap
Alligator leather with matching Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin
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DB28XP V2 Starry Sky
Movement
Hand-wound Caliber DB2115v7, hours, minutes, 6 days power reserve with propri-etary self-regulating twin barrel, titanium balance with white gold inserts, De Bethune balance-spring with flat terminal curve, silicon escape wheel, 28,800 vibrations/ hour
Dial
Silver-toned hours ring with transferred Arabic numerals, transferred circular satin-brushed titanium minutes ring, starry sky with white gold stars, dial with opening to reveal bal-ance surrounded by a chamfered polished steel rim
Case
43mm polished Grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle, 7.2mm thickness, water resistant to 3 ATM
Strap
Alligator leather with matching Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin
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DB28XP Tourbillon
Movement
Hand-wound Caliber DB2009v4, hours, minutes, 30” indicator via ultra0light De Bethune tourbillon cage at 6 o’clock, power reserve of 5 days with self-regulating twin barrel
Case
43mm Grade 5 titanium with “microlight” case middle, 8.1mm thickness, water resistant to 3 ATM
Strap
Alligator leather with matching Grade 5 titanium buckle and pin
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