Audemars Piguet
Why the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is the Coolest Debut of 2020
Audemars Piguet
Why the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is the Coolest Debut of 2020
First, let’s talk about movement. Baby’s predecessor, the 222, was launched in 1977 to do battle in the integrated bracelet, sports chic arena, with Audemars Piguet’s 5402ST Royal Oak that kicked things off in 1972 and Patek Philippe’s Nautilus 3700/1A introduced in 1976 (understanding something about new-model lead time, it is clear the 222 was developed in parallel with the Nautilus).
In ’96, when the Dino Modolo-designed Overseas replaced the 222, a Girard-Perregaux-based 1310 movement replaced the 1121 resulting in a thicker watch. For watch lovers, however, the original caliber 1121 has a special place in our hearts as one of the most legendary movements of all time.
Thankfully, the caliber 1120 and the Overseas model were reunited in 2016 with the unveiling of a new update, which beautifully reintroduced the dynamic tension between bold, sculptural aesthetics counterpointed by a deliciously slim profile in the Overseas Ultra-Thin as well as the wonderful Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, both using this amazing movement.
Well, actually, yes, particularly in the rose-gold and blue-dial version on rubber strap released in 2019. First, because I think it is more wearable on a daily basis than a full bracelet watch, and second, because at USD 73,000, it is the most accessibly priced of any of these watches. Also, if you’re a technical watchmaking geek like me, then geek out to the following.
The Audemars Piguet ref. 26597 is 9.5mm thick. The Patek 5740 is 8.42mm thick. But the Vacheron is a mere 8.1mm thick. In fact, until AP came up with the experimental RD#2, the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin, the Vacheron was the thinnest perpetual calendar sports watch in history.
A Stunning Transfiguration
Based purely on its own merit, the white-gold, gray-dial Overseas Perpetual Calendar from 2016 was awesome-looking and amazing on the wrist. The design was pared back, restrained, essential and harmonious to the extreme. The bezel was still aggressive but somehow more elegant.
Indeed, the overall style of the watch was reminiscent of the 222’s playboy élan without overtly repeating any of the vintage watch’s design. I also liked how the leap-year and month indicator at 12 o’clock on the dial was totally unique.
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar model became even more appealing when a rose-gold, silver-dial version was added in 2018 (on a leather strap) and then fully ravishing in 2019 when it appeared with the same rose-gold case on a full gold bracelet option or rubber strap, and that amazing, stunning blue dial. Suddenly for me, the watch came into its own. In the way Jennifer Grey’s character in Dirty Dancing transforms.
Lastly, it also has a quick-release system so you can interchange the full gold bracelet with a rubber or leather strap. Don’t believe that it could eclipse its competition in its total hotness? Go try it on and judge for yourself. Because, nobody puts Baby in a corner.
Self-winding caliber 1120 QPSQ; hours and minutes; perpetual calendar with 48-month leap-year indicator and moonphase display; 40-hour power reserve
Case
41.5mm; 18K 5N pink gold; water-resistant to 50m
Strap
Blue Mississippiensis alligator leather, blue rubber and pink-gold bracelet
Price
USD 115,000[/td_block_text_with_title]